Every era has its food fads. Today’s culinary sophistication is a tomorrow’s cringing embarrassment. Prawn cocktails, fondue and profiteroles – I’m looking at you. I’m obsessed with trying to spot today’s equivalents. Halloumi cheese? Tortilla wraps? Cupcakes? It’s so hard to know. It’s like when you see photographs of the eighties: everyone has bad haircuts, but they just have no idea.
I do however have a strong hunch that I have spotted the culprit and the culprit’s name is ‘molecular gastronomy’. Don’t get me wrong, I love Heston Blumenthal – he’s a wonderful, original, crackpot creative and part of a great tradition of mad British inventors. I’m really talking about the naff version that is inevitably trickling down to the lesser restaurants. No chef seems to feel fulfilled if they’re not messing around with aubergine foam or crab ice cream. Molecular gastronomy is partly about making unlikely things work, but when it’s done badly – they just don’t work.
It won’t stop there either. MSK Ingredients have now launched a kit “to help chefs and adventurous home cooks to enter the world of molecular gastronomy and bring a little culinary wizardry to their dishes”. The kit enables cooks to make such MG standards as caviar pearls, hot jellies, hot and cold foams and a flaming sorbet. Calcium chloride, sodium alginate and xanthan gum are among the goodies listed.
I don’t know, I’m unconvinced it’ll take off in the home. I’ve seen enough disused tagines and fondue sets – and those are easy to use. I think this may be a popular gift but yet another milestone in the slow naffing up of molecular gastronomy.
By M Cosworth





Diva Month