Tag Archives: swede

Swede Child(hood) of Mine

Being born to a (very) Scottish father and an English mother, one central question dominated my childhood. Not devolution of powers, not Scottish independence, not even whether poem should be pronounced ‘poem’ or ‘poyem’. The question that seemed to most vex my family was: what does a turnip look like? Is it small and purple-tinged, as my Mum would argue, or large and orange as my Dad would?

In Scotland, a turnip is a swede, and a swede is a turnip. Or (just for diplomacy’s sake) in England, a swede is a turnip, and a turnip is a swede. Something funny happened, somewhere around Hadrian’s Wall, and left many a violent vegetable dispute in its wake.

A turnip by any other name would taste as swede

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Burns after reading

It’s not hard to understand why the uninitiated might baulk at the idea of haggis.  There’s nothing particularly appealing about the thought of animal stomach that’s been stuffed with offal and left to boil for a few hours.  Not even the promise of oats and spice in the mix can soften the blow. It looks like a mud-filled water bomb; sometimes you can even buy it in tins.

Showing us how it’s done – a Burns Night celebration in 1958

Robbie Burns liked it though. He even went so far as to call it the “Great Chieftain o’ the puddin-race!”, which is probably exaggerating slightly. Is it technically even a pudding? Burns’ poem Address to a Haggis is an epic eight verses, glorifying the “honest” Scottish fare. In order to do so, he is forced to denigrate other European comparisons, suggesting that ‘olio’ (a word for stew derived from the Spanish word for stew pot, ‘olla’) would make a sow sick, and that “fricassee would make her spew”. An entire stanza alone is devoted to some “Poor Devil!” (a miscellaneous European who we can assume to be French) and his culinary “trash”. Still, despite the fact that you might accuse him of racism today, Burns is to be commended purely for the fact that he was able to crank out an entire poem about an otherwise perfectly bland dish. I’m only on my second paragraph and already I’m struggling (which is why no-one is going to commemorate my life with an annual feast some 214 years after my passing).

Burns Night traditionally takes place on the 25th of January to celebrate the bard’s birthday. Originally started by Burns’ close friends as a tribute to his memory, the event has since become a fixed date on the Scottish calendar, with various suppers taking place all over the country and throughout greater Britain. The suppers, and ceremony surrounding them, can be as formal or informal as you are, the only prerequisite being the consumption of haggis, neeps (swede) and tatties (potatoes), all washed down with drams of whiskey. If you’re a vegetarian, don’t think that you’re going to get out of it that easily.  Enter vegetarian haggis: a mixture of nuts, oats, lentils and mush passing for vegetable matter. A pleasanter sounding choice perhaps, but equally as aesthetically unappetizing as its meatier counterpart. If you’re a true Scot then you might have a Clootie Dumpling (a pudding prepared in a linen cloth) or Typsy Laird (a Scottish sherry trifle) for dessert. Don’t stop to think about what the consumption of this much brown is doing to your insides, just remind yourself that it only has to happen once a year, and make sure to eat a salad the next day.

(Disclaimer: I actually do love haggis and could happily eat it twice a year.)

By Annika Kristensen

Masterclass with Gordon Jones: Taking the glitz out of Christmas. HaHa not that I’m a scrooge.

Now, December is a notorious month for spending money not only on presents for your nearest and dearest but also a huge amount is spent on food; caviar, beef fillet, shellfish and champagne. Oh sorry please forgive me, I forgot to mention the old Norfolk black turkey as well, which I feel is an overpriced giant chicken with not as much flavour and doesn’t fit in any normal persons oven without a struggle. I’m glad I got the turkey rant off my chest.

Now since everyone is still talking about the credit crunch and recession, I thought that it might be a good idea to give you some sensible tips and advice on how to look after your Christmas food budget. The real secret to this is buying your food in smaller batches instead of just one massive shop that costs hundreds of pounds, as you always end up wasting food or throwing stuff in the bin that has either gone off or nobody can face eating any more. My second tip is buying British  seasonal produce as it has to travel less which keeps the costs down. Also try and buy  less well known cuts of meat; try bavette of beef for roasting instead of rib or sirloin as it has so much more flavour and is a quarter of the price. Try Lamb shoulder instead of leg, slowly roasted in the oven with beetroots and basted with real ale to keep it moist, makes a wonderful dish. On the fish side if you still want an impressive big fish then try stone bass, which is sustainably farmed and a really good alternative to the non credit crunch line-caught wild bass.

The recipe that I’m doing today is one of my favourites during the cold winter months and is cheap which is always good.

Lamb Stew with Kale, Carrots and Swede. Serves at least 4-6.

500g diced neck of lamb (don’t trim the lamb too much and cut into large dice)

1 litre of lamb stock (vegetable or chicken will do fine)

A good splash of white wine

1 bunch of carrots

1 large swede (that’s the one with yellow flesh)

2 leeks

4 sticks of celery

500g potatoes (use a waxy variety: Charlotte)

1 large bag of curly kale

3 banana shallots

4 cloves of garlic

½ a mild chilli

Small bunch of thyme

Salt and Pepper

1 dessert spoon of flour

A pinch of ground cumin

A good knob of butter

Method.

Dust the diced lamb neck in seasoned flour and seal in a large pan with butter, getting good colour all over. Then remove the meat from the pan and add the chopped shallots, garlic and chilli with a pinch of cumin powder (if you don’t have powder then use seeds). Cook until translucent. Add the sealed meat back into the pan and deglaze with the white wine. This is a really important step as all the flavour of the meat is on the bottom of the pan so really try and get all the sediment off the bottom.

Now, all you have to do is add the leeks, carrots, swede and potatoes, cover with stock and simmer very gently for 1 hour. After 1 hour check the meat is tender and well seasoned then add the kale and chopped thyme. Cook for a further 5 minutes and serve. I think that this stew is better after a day or two so if you have time to do it in advance then it only benefits.

By Gordon Jones